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Varanasi - The City That Transcends Time
(February 2025)
Manikarnika ghat
The recent development efforts have largely focused on spiritual landmarks—the ghats and the temple. The newly constructed stairways from the river leading to the temple exude grandeur, and as evening descends, the temple’s tranquil ambiance and intricate architecture leave visitors spiritually refreshed, just as it has for generations.
After our morning walk along the ghats, we ventured into Varanasi’s famed alleyways. Navigating these narrow lanes is an experience in itself—pedestrians often step aside to make way for funeral processions. The lanes are alive with activity, from the famous Blue Lassi shop, where people sip lassi while standing in the street, to the constant honking of two-wheelers squeezing through impossibly tight spaces. Sacred bulls, revered as Lord Shiva’s mount, roam freely, adding to the city’s unique atmosphere. Amidst the seeming chaos, Varanasi’s essence thrives—a vibrant blend of life and spirituality that continues to captivate visitors.
We purchased VIP passes from the temple office for Rs 250 per person. Even with privileged access, it took nearly an hour in the holiday rush to complete our ‘darshan.’ The general queue for free entry wound through multiple serpentine lanes, with an estimated waiting time of two hours—even late in the evening! A morning visit would undoubtedly be even more time-consuming.
Guleria Kothi
One of the city’s oldest market place and busiest intersections, Godhulia chowk, connects the main ghats, the temple, Lanka (home to Banaras Hindu University), and the Cantonment area. Despite infrastructure improvements enhancing the city’s sacred landmarks, they have done little to reduce street congestion. Except for VIP and government vehicles, four-wheelers are restricted here, leaving cycle rickshaws, auto-rickshaws, and two-wheelers to dominate the chaotic traffic, ensuring that a pedestrian’s journey is anything but smooth. Yet, this fusion of spirituality and disorder is part of Varanasi’s charm.
This December, however, brought an unusual warmth to Varanasi. Early mornings required only a light pullover, and the afternoons were pleasantly warm—perfect for exploring. Walking along the ghats in the early morning is one of the best ways to experience the city. The ghats are mostly connected, allowing for an uninterrupted stroll, except near Manikarnika.
Varanasi, or Benaras as it is commonly called, remains a spiritual epicenter, drawing nearly 90% of its visitors in search of divine solace. Pilgrims throng the ghats for ritualistic bathing and visit the temple to seek blessings. Among the ghats, Dashashwamedh Ghat stands out as a focal point of devotion, attracting countless worshippers.
Kashi Viswanath Temple
Taking a cab from the station, we arrived at “Namo Ghat”—a newly developed ghat with motorable access and a dedicated parking area. Our stay was at Guleria Kothi, a beautifully restored heritage bungalow overlooking the river. This boutique hotel, with just 15 rooms, boasts a private ghat for guests and a small fleet of boats. One of its highlights is the arrival experience—the hotel’s boat picked us up from the Namo Ghat parking area, and we reached the property after a serene 15-minute boat ride. The only alternative route is through Varanasi’s labyrinthine alleys, too narrow even for rickshaws, where navigating past the constant flow of two-wheelers can be quite challenging. During monsoon season, the property’s ground floor apparently remains submerged for nearly three months, requiring annual repairs before reopening. Despite some service hiccups on a busy Christmas evening, the warm hospitality made our stay truly memorable, enriching our experience of this timeless city.
Next, we visited ‘Pehlwan Lassi’ near BHU (Banaras Hindu University) at Lanka. Multiple adjacent shops—likely run by descendants of the original owner—compete for customers. We picked one at random and indulged in sweet lassi, salted lassi, and rabri—all of which were exceptional. It’s a must-visit.
In the evening, our hotel’s boat took some guests to witness the renowned “Ganga Aarti” at Dashashwamedh Ghat. By the time we arrived, at least 100 boats crowded the river, and ours was positioned in the fifth row. The experience felt akin to watching a cricket match from the farthest corner of a massive stadium—engulfed by the grandeur yet struggling for a clear view. However, the breathtaking views of the ghats during the boat ride more than made up for it.
Our holiday was short—just three days. Varanasi continues to offer an experience that is both humbling and exhilarating, a testament to its eternal allure. More than just the sights, the city left me feeling mentally enriched and spiritually awakened. Perhaps that is what we carried back—a deep sense of connection and a promise to return, soon rather than waiting for three decades.
That evening, we walked to Dashashwamedh Ghat. The road leading to the ghat has an entryway to the temple complex, so we decided to have a ‘darshan’ before heading to the ghat. The transformation of Dashashwamedh Ghat and the expanded Kashi Vishwanath temple complex is striking. The temple, initially known as the Adi Vishveshwar Temple, has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times - near the original site and the current structure was built in 1780 by Ahilyabai Holkar.
Dashashwamedh ghat
The ghats themselves are a microcosm of life, brimming with rituals and activity. Families perform rites for the departed, locals meditate and pray, barbers prepare for ceremonial haircuts, and chai stalls host lively conversations (‘chai pe charcha’). Elderly and young alike engage in physical exercises, while pilgrims take ritual baths before heading to the temple. Boatmen eagerly offer river rides, showcasing the more than 80 ghats from the water’s perspective.
From Godhulia, we were on our way to explore Varanasi’s renowned street food scene. We gave the famous “Kashi Chat Bhandar” a pass, thanks to the huge crowd at the shop. Our next destination was “Shri Ram Bhandar” - a small, nondescript shop on the ground floor of a residential building in the Cantonment area—about 5 km from Godhulia. The shop is famous for its kachori and jalebi, popular breakfast delicacies. When the shop opens at 8 AM, a queue quickly forms, and, like many eateries here, customers enjoy their freshly prepared, piping-hot treats while standing on the roadside. The experience and taste are unparalleled.
Ganga Aarti
Nearby, several old-age homes house devout elderly who wish for their final rites to be performed at Manikarnika, seeking moksha—the liberation of the soul. Though I didn’t inquire about exact numbers, locals claim over 300 cremations take place here daily. During a 20-minute morning walk through the narrow by-lanes surrounding the ghat, we encountered three funeral processions—a poignant testament to the ghat’s enduring role. Winter, especially, is a challenging time for the elderly and terminally ill.
As our train crossed the iconic double-decker Malviya (formerly Dufferin) Bridge over the sacred Ganges, the first glimpse of Varanasi’s paved ghats filled me with nostalgia. It had been nearly three decades since my last visit to this ancient city, whose timeless essence remains untouched despite the passage of millennia. Known as Kashi in ancient times, Varanasi has been continuously inhabited for over 2,500 years and has witnessed hundreds of generations come and go. In this grand timeline, thirty years feels like a fleeting moment, and little seemed to have changed—save for the noticeable transformation around the Kashi Vishwanath temple and nearby popular ghats. However, the number of pilgrims appears to have grown exponentially, especially during this December holiday season.
Adjacent to the temple is Manikarnika Ghat, India’s most revered and largest cremation site. This ghat that dates back to the 5th Century, is believed to have an ever-burning pyre, and one cannot miss the sight of multiple funeral fires while passing through its narrow lanes. Here, the vibrance of life and the silence of death are finely intertwined!
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